Bornholm island offseason

Most tourists visit Bornholm between May and September. It is the 'bike island' after all, so cycling around Bornholm is a popular leisure activity. Tourists gladly relax on sandy beaches in the south of the island and enjoy the charms of small Bornholm towns.

However, is there anything to do in Bornholm in the wintertime? If you are wondering whether it is worth visiting this corner of Denmark at the turn of the year, I can assure you that it definitely is! My husband and I decided to go to Bornholm for a week in December. Our friends found this idea peculiar, and the relatives wondered what we were going to do on this small island in such a non-touristic period. We, however, looked forward to the trip with enthusiasm for the trip, heading there in search of silence, peace and seclusion.

We eventually decided to bring our four wheels along. In the off-season, the easiest way to get to Bornholm from Poland is via Sweden. First, we sailed from Gdynia to Karlskrona with the Stena Line ferry. We use this connection relatively often and usually book a night trip. In the morning the ferry is already in Karlskrona, from where there still is a two-hour drive to the town of Ystad. This is where the Bornholmlinjen ferry operates on the Ystad - Rønne route. Although you can also get to Bornholm by sea from Germany, Denmark and Poland, the connection to and from Ystad is the shortest in terms of sailing time, as it takes from 1h20 to 1h30 depending on the sailing conditions.

During the pandemic, passengers are required to stay in their vehicles, but the short crossing time makes it bearable. In the times of coronavirus, entering Bornholm is more restrictive than usual, and some vehicles are subject to sanitary control.

For a week's stay, we rented a cottage through DanHoliday Center. The reservation and key collection procedures were simple and everything went smoothly. A huge advantage of a short-term rental in a low season period is much lower prices. Renting a cottage for a week was barely 3000 DKK. The price was also competitive comparing to the local hotels.

The dark side of local real estate is seasonal construction. Many houses are typical summer houses, which reflects in the architectural aspect. Single windows and poorly insulated walls make the buildings quite cold and heating such poorly insulated four walls requires a lot of energy. This is important because when it comes to rental homes electricity and water are billed separately on the basis of meter readings.

We stopped at a small village called Lobbæk, halfway between Rønne and Aakirkeby. The place, although off the beaten track, was well-connected and yet quiet. I presume that in summer it must be really idyllic, and the large garden in front of the cottage we rented can be used for sunbathing, sports or children games.

When it comes to moving around the island in wintertime, a car is a much better option than a bicycle. Flying to Bornholm from Copenhagen, consider renting a car because the roads are good and the traffic is light. I can assure you that even individuals with little driving experience will be fine behind the wheel. 

Within a week, we encountered a handful of cyclists, but they all seemed to be locals. I guess in this case, the exception proves the rule that cycling tourism is designated for the summer months. There is also an efficient bus network on the island. Bornholm's bus stops are worth mentioning - their shelters are painted in the colors of the local flag.

There are also several taxis in the streets of Rønne that offer their services to non-motorized tourists and partygoers. Since UBER has been banned all over Denmark, local taxi drivers are doing well, even in tiny Bornholm.

Bornholm's gateways to the outer world include the harbors of Rønne and Nexø and the airport on the outskirts of Rønne. A modest terminal the size of a local supermarket efficiently serves regular connections to Copenhagen as well as seasonal flights to Germany and several Danish cities.

Despite its small size, Bornholm is a culinary cauldron. Many restaurants, especially those with gardens, operate only in the summer, but quite a lot of restaurants are open all year round. Due to the ongoing lockdown of gastronomy in Poland, we were very much looking forward to a real visit to a restaurant, accompanied by a waiter’s service and eating food on the spot.

Another advantage of the low season was the trouble-free table booking. We went to dinner at Det Røde Pakhus in the center of Rønne, which turned out to be a fantastic choice. The place is decorated in a typical Nordic style and the menu is based on local ingredients. However, Italian and Asian inspirations appear in several dishes.

There are also quite a few atmospheric cafes in the heart of Rønne, of which I like Gustav the most. An Advent highlight of the menu is a typical Danish dessert, æbleskiver - pancake balls served with marmalade. The available cakes look also pretty delicious - especially the blueberry cheesecake.

Meanwhile, for the best sandwiches, you would have to go to the other end of the island - Nexø. The eclectic Guldbønnen Café serves the iconic Danish smørrebrød in both hot and cold versions, both delicious and hearty.

Bornholm is famous for its smokehouses, the most famous of which are those in Svaneke, Allinge, and Hasle. Unfortunately, the sad news for December tourists is that a great deal of the smokehouse is closed. We were desperate to get a taste of Bornholm's famous smoked food and eventually managed to find one smokehouse that sold takeaway. Unfortunately, after calling the owner, it turned out that they accept orders one week in advance. So it seems that we will have to come back in spring or summer to explore local smoking traditions.

The thing that absolutely amazed me on Bornholm was the number of independent pottery workshops, local manufactories, micro-businesses as well as artistic gems hidden in garages and country sheds. It's a nice change from ubiquitous chain stores and mass production.

A fantastic souvenir from Bornholm is ceramics, especially that the design in this area is so diverse that everyone will find something for themselves. Clay dishes from small manufacture in Bornholm can be found among others at the iconic Copenhagen restaurant Noma.

In addition, it is worth buying local food products that are not only tasty but also of high quality. I particularly recommend Bornholm's mustards and olive oil, as well as hard candy from the factory in Svaneke. You can also get honey and homemade jams in tiny shops in the province.

Bornholm beer is also noteworthy. There are several small breweries on the island that specialize in craft beers. Throughout the whole island, you can also find stands with local products, for which you pay by leaving money in the can attached to the stand. Fashion enthusiasts should go to Gudhjem, where there are many boutiques with locally made clothes, where cotton and linen are the dominant fabrics.

Visiting Bornholm in wintertime should be planned according to the length of the day. It gets dark around 4 p.m., so until then it is reasonable to focus on walks and other outdoor activities.
Being in the capital city, you could stroll around the center of Rønne, but also take some time to venture into the side streets. Rønne and Nexø are the only Danish towns that suffered from the Soviet bombing. Walking around the buildings, take a closer look at which houses were rebuilt after the war damage. The Christmas atmosphere is most intense in the capital of Bornholm (however, in my opinion, the Christmas decor in the center of Aakirkeby was the most creative). In the central square, there is a small Christmas market surrounded by illuminated lights. Rønne is also a suitable place for Christmas shopping, and the local shops offer classic Danish brands in addition to local products.

It is also worth taking the time to visit the Bornholm Museum. A particularly interesting part of the exhibition presents the island's wartime history. Personally, I was also interested in a small room devoted to Polish themes in this part of the Danish Kingdom.